Since we have a new forum here for one of my favorite SPI products I figure I'd post a tip here that I've found VERY important for working with the Euro and the Polar accelerator. The Euro is a fast clear to begin with so it doesn't take much polar to really speed it up. I've found the sweet spot for me to be to mix it up as 4:1:1.25 and then add Polar in to take it to 4:1:1.5. This works out nicely because the cups I use have a 4:1:1.5 scale so you just pour the reducer half way between the 1-1.5, and then take it the rest of the way to 1.5 with the Polar. This gives you 3.85% Polar, or 1.2oz per mixed qt (well under the recommended limit) and I've found it to be perfect.

In the summer I can shoot this mix and be buffing a blend area (awesome in sail panels) in less than an hour, and that's using no heat or curing lamps. This mix is the standard fare here when we clear head lights, you can do a set while a customer waits. It's also a great time saver as a jamb clear. I actually prefer this mix better than the Turbo Clear, to me it's just easier to shoot. I also like that it's CHEAP, and doesn't have the wicked die back that I used to get when using competitors "spot" clears in hot weather.

I've found if you're going to do more than one coat that you need to get the second coat down before the first coat is fully hand slick or you're likely to have a sensitivity issue resulting in wrinkling, followed by a prolific bout of profanity. So I like to shoot the second coat at the point where the first just stops stringing, and I never go more than two coats. It's also worth mentioning that I've found adding Polar also shortens the buffing window for the Euro so keep that in mind. It's really not a big deal, if you're using the Polar you're most likely in a hurry so you'll be buffing asap anyway.

Hope that helps someone. I like to keep other folks from making the same mistakes I've alread cussed over. It's just good CARma.

Hi Is the Euro clear a harder clear then the Un. say the next day or so.
And better for the every day collision work?
thanks Tom

Yes it's a much harder clear, more like an oem clear. The next day it's not super hard, it stays buffable for about a week (shorter if accelerated). Once it's outside the 10 day mark it's much harder than the other SPI clears. IMHO it's the best clear SPI makes for collision repair work.

Very good info Brian. I'll try that ratio next time.

Yes, the Euro is perfect for collision work. It has all the characteristics you'd
want for production stuff: good flow, water clear, adjustable, fast, and buffs
very easy the day after (12+ hours or so). And inexpensive.

Unlike the older version, which cured way too hard, the 5100 (2.1 VOC)
feels just about right. It's an obvious winner.

If only Barry made a 2.1 MS clear... (HINT!)

2.1 MS???

Han, crossed my mind but the way the MS is set up, going to a 2.1 VOC would just kill the way it handles, could be close but not the same.

I was just dreaming since Andy wont sell it to me anymore. But there is
the 2.1 Universal i've yet to try...

How about an SPI flex additive? Something to add to the Euro for allovers?

Or MS Han clear (for me only)?